Saturday, 1 June 2013

A retrospective on Harris

I arrived on Harris after a very wet journey down from Stornaway, where I had landed. I didn't stop in Stornaway, but drove through the suburbs, in wonder that anyone had bothered to import all that dreariness from the mainland!

The Lewis road

Taking a detour onto the Golden Road (so called because it cost so much to build) I visited a couple of Harris tweed shops. It is difficult to describe the scenery on this road, but if you ever get the chance to go there, just go! I don't think I will ever forget the massive rocks and the little lochs between them.

Arrived at Lickasto Blackhouse and felt a bit disappointed, as there seemed to be rather a large number of people on site, however many soon departed at the end of the half term holiday.

Harvey and John, the site owners, bought the house pictured below, when it was derelict. They restored the building, as well as an original blackhouse, which now serves as a refuge for wet and weary campers.

John and Harvey's house

A perfect pitch, ready to spot otters..

Below: one of the paths, with the blackhouse concealed by willows

John (left) and Harvey (right) with two campers, Bill and Fiona

The genius of J and H, is their generosity of spirit, which makes everyone feel welcome without being overwhelmed. The blackhouse is a great idea and campers drift in and out to chat, warm up or enjoy some toast made with the home baked bread Harvey brings down every day. I never knew the bread bin to be empty! A group of us became quite close over a short period of time, and there were some moist eyes when we parted. A unique experience, I think, and one I shall remember with gratitude.