End Notes and Thanks

This will be my last night before heading home. It has been a good trip; I've driven over 1,000 miles and showered in cubicles of every level of icy temperature. Met campsite wardens who have been really friendly, and have gone out of their way to help, (most of them) and some who ought to be blacklisted! The scenery has been worth the long journeys, and I can already feel the sense of satisfaction I'll experience when I look at the map of the British Isles on the back of the sitting room door, and can say 'I've been there, I know what it looks like'.

Meeting other travellers on campsites, ferries and buses, has made the journey far from solo, and I've had conversations with a few feisty women vanners, some towing vast caravans.

Mention of caravans reminds me of my new hobby; I've started to collect 'van and motor-van names. Not the pet ones owners bestow, but the labels stuck on them by the manufacturers. Now, big or small, most caravans look the same, they are white, metal/fibreglass bodies with a few windows and a door. There may be some differences in aero-dynamics, but that's about it. This must be why there is a need to use enticing names, promising adventure and excitement. One can understand names such as Wanderer, Trooper and Explorer and even the more daring Buccaneer, Challenger and Odyssey; but Unicorn, Apache, Pegasus and Quasar? And then there is Carnival, Zenith and Polar. And I wonder if you have to take a personality test before you take possession of a caravan called Charisma?!

White Vans at Knaresborough Caravan Club Site

THANKS are due to a number of friends who have made my journey possible. L and P have listened patiently to hours of angst while I tried to decide whether to buy Flossy. C gave me lifts when I had to take her in 'to be seen to'. M made her safe after she was supposed to have been serviced and MOT'd, but was still potentially dangerous to drive. Without D, I couldn't have gone away at all. Profound thanks to her. A and B helped get her loaded when I was a bit indisposed, and S and D took me for a memorable visit to Knaresborough. (They know what I mean). And I enjoyed the company of J and H on Mull in mostly glorious weather.

More later...

Later... Home at last. The journey from Knaresborough to Worcester went without incident, and I unloaded Flossy, ready for essential repairs. The sitting room floor is now covered in camping items, with a small path leading to the window and television.

If you have been, thanks for following the blog.

Posted with Blogsy

Mull remembered

Just arrived at Knaresborough Caravan Club Site. It is very popular and you have to book up months ahead to get in. It is a nice compact site, but I can't honestly see the attraction for so many people to want to come here! Luckily I have a good grass pitch, tucked away from the main site, with just a few campervans for company. And excellent neighbours, which is a real bonus.

To return to Mull...

Fidden Farm campsite was once a well guarded secret; you only knew about it by word of mouth. However, it has now made its way into 'Cool Camping in Scotland', and is much busier, with a different feel to it. No longer is a cheerful 'hello' exchanged as you pass another camper. Suddenly, some people find the ground extraordinarily interesting as you smile at them. So you are left with a wry grimace on your face, wondering what to do with it!

This was the view from my window

 

And a view of Flossy on her pitch, with part of a friend's van to the left

 

The small island of Erraid is close by, and one of the best walks from Fidden is across the sands in that direction, when the tide is out. This is the island described by Robert Louis Stevenson in 'Kidnapped'. The old lighthouse cottages seen on the right of the photo, are now in possession of the Findhorn Foundation. (Remember them? Huge cabbages grown with spiritual care).

 

 

 

Views of the beach at Fidden, taken when I visited in 2011

The road leading to the campsite gives views over to Iona

A Hebridean sunset

 

Posted with Blogsy

Less is not really more...

I had hoped to post pictures and a retrospective, but the signal here at Moffat is variable. However, here are a couple to be going on with:

 

The Corran Ferry: £7.50 for a three minute crossing!

On 3rd June I took the small Corran ferry near Bunree over to Ardgour, and drove down through beautiful scenery to the Lochaline Ferry. The drive was spoilt by tourists who had not understood, or were wilfully ignoring, the Scottish single track road code. Getting stuck behind someone doing 20mph when you are aiming to catch a ferry is pretty frustrating. I spoke to a local lady when I finally reached the port, and she says it is a major problem for the folk who live in the area.

A notice at the Lochaline ferry terminal.

There was a small group of cyclists at the terminal, who had just come from the Fishnish side. It transpired that 50 years ago, they had all belonged to a south London cycling club. Now they live scattered across the British Isles, but had come together for a tour around Scotland and the Isles to celebrate their anniversary.

The South London group

Arriving at Fishnish on the Isle of Mull, I motored down through mountains to the Ross, a journey of about 70 minutes. The bluebells were in full flower, and the psychedelic patches of blue quite took my breath away!

 

Not a good representation; it's hard to capture the brightness of the blue.

Tomorrow (11June) I move on to Knaresborough. If there is a good signal, I'll post some pictures of Mull.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Big update coming!

Arrived at Moffat in the rain, just after 3pm. I left the campsite at Fidden (pronounced Fidgen) on the Ross of Mull at 9am. So I'm glad to be stationary at last. The site here is full to bursting and there is much activity; the man in the van opposite appears to have a pile driver in his caravan. Goodness knows what he's up to. Sweating heavily, and with all the attributes of a builder's labourer (stripped to the waist, hairy, overweight and with a slippage in the rear trouser department) he is clearly in the middle of a massive project! BTW I do think that builder's labourers are the salt of the earth and quite essential. Of course.

Enough of all that, in the morning, I will update with pictures and more about the past week.

Posted with Blogsy

Moving on tomorrow

Surrounded by vans, I have decided to move on to Mull a day early. This means there will probably be more 'blog silence', as there is no 3G reception on the Ross of Mull on my network. The Caravan Club, in its wisdom, have given me a 'first warning' for going early (but no refund). I am tempted to make a badge labelled with 'I'm on my first CC warning' to wear on CC sites! Probably get thrown out for provocative behaviour. Tempting though...

We've just had the big changeover here, as vanners leave by midday, and others arrive. There is much scrunching of gravel as people try to back large caravans or Motorcaravans into awkward spaces. Usually done by the men, ignoring their wives who are trying to wave them into position. Then, out come the chairs, tables and awnings. So they sit shivering outside, because they are pretending it's summer. I came across one man yesterday, who was constructing an elaborate fortress of wire panels in order to keep his Shelties from straying abroad. I'd post a picture of it, but it might look a bit obvious!

Below: view through Flossy's window

I met a nice, slightly alternative Scottish couple yesterday, who'd just bought an early tiny Romahome (one of Flossy's ancestors). They were absolutely delighted with it, but goodness knows how they managed to sleep in it, the husband looked as if he was over six foot tall!

 

Posted with Blogsy

Some more pictures

Here are some out-of-order photos I meant to include before losing Internet access:

A view of the yurts at Lickisto. There are two of them, each sleeping six or so.

Another view of the campsite

Overlooking the loch; a view from the Lickisto campsite

The heron fishing at Lochside, Strollamus. He (?) had an inscrutable look about him, and didn't seem to be catching much! Probably just enjoying getting away from the family for a bit.

 

Flossy on board the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, so far, she's done over 700 miles on this trip.

 

Posted with Blogsy

A retrospective on Harris

I arrived on Harris after a very wet journey down from Stornaway, where I had landed. I didn't stop in Stornaway, but drove through the suburbs, in wonder that anyone had bothered to import all that dreariness from the mainland!

The Lewis road

Taking a detour onto the Golden Road (so called because it cost so much to build) I visited a couple of Harris tweed shops. It is difficult to describe the scenery on this road, but if you ever get the chance to go there, just go! I don't think I will ever forget the massive rocks and the little lochs between them.

Arrived at Lickasto Blackhouse and felt a bit disappointed, as there seemed to be rather a large number of people on site, however many soon departed at the end of the half term holiday.

Harvey and John, the site owners, bought the house pictured below, when it was derelict. They restored the building, as well as an original blackhouse, which now serves as a refuge for wet and weary campers.

John and Harvey's house

A perfect pitch, ready to spot otters..

Below: one of the paths, with the blackhouse concealed by willows

John (left) and Harvey (right) with two campers, Bill and Fiona

The genius of J and H, is their generosity of spirit, which makes everyone feel welcome without being overwhelmed. The blackhouse is a great idea and campers drift in and out to chat, warm up or enjoy some toast made with the home baked bread Harvey brings down every day. I never knew the bread bin to be empty! A group of us became quite close over a short period of time, and there were some moist eyes when we parted. A unique experience, I think, and one I shall remember with gratitude.

 

Posted with Blogsy

'Breathtaking' Bunree!

Bunree is supposed to be one of the 'jewels in the crown' of the Caravan Club. They describe the view from the site as 'literally breathtaking'. I admit that a few lucky souls who have bagged a Lochside pitch, might agree with that statement. However, the outlook from my van shows a rather different story...

 

Good, isn't it? Guess that I was spoilt at Harris and Skye.

 

Posted with Blogsy

In the queue at Armadale

Finally, a 3G signal! I'm waiting in the ferry queue at Armadale on the Isle of Skye, and it is absolutely POURING with rain.

I'll do some retrospective posting when I can, with some pictures. My last campsite stop was at Strollamus on the east coast of Skye. It's a small site with amazing views and slightly challenging facilities. But the warden is friendly and very helpful, and that is a big plus. I had the best pitch on the site, almost in the loch!

Flossy at Lochside, Strollamus

I took the bus to Portree a couple of days ago, and it was just as I remembered it: shops full of tourist tat, fish and chip 'caffs', and the occasional expensive boutique (well, just one, actually!). I am coming to the conclusion that the islanders would really prefer you not to visit, but do the least when you do. Having said that, many of the shopkeepers are keen to help, so it must be something to do with the Island Council. There are a surprising number of English residents on Skye, and it seemed a bit strange to be served by an Englishman in the Tourist Information Office.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Durness to Ardamair

It's been quite a day! The road from Durness to Ullapool is utterly dramatic; you travel through scenery so ancient that it is both intimidating and compelling. Although I tried to keep my eyes on the road, it became more and more difficult!

 

En route to Ullapool

 

Along the way

The campsite at Ardmair Point is very beautiful and peaceful. The view from the beach is breathtaking...

The view from the beach, feet away from my van

I marked my pitch, and then went in to Ullapool to pick up ferry tickets. It is a lovely little village (not a town I am told) with the inevitable Edinburgh Woollen Mill shops. Why are there so few genuine local mill shops now?

Ullapool

Back to the campsite, and disaster! The recently installed alarm on the van went off and wouldn't stop! It was deeply embarrassing. Eventually I rang the RAC who sent out a local garage mechanic. There seemed to be no solution, but to take the siren out. I am just hoping that it won't affect the operation of the rest of the locking system. We shall see.

The sun is out and vans are arriving by the minute... looks as if it will be a good bank holiday for the folk here. But I am glad to be sailing to the Western Isles tomorrow. If Flossy behaves!

 

Posted with Blogsy

Still at Durness

Wind and rain and hail and blizzards promised, meant a delayed departure to Ullapool. There have been a very few breaks in the weather. So confined to Flossy for most of the day.

The view from Flossy this morning

 

A small friend

 

Posted with Blogsy

Evening Post

Wow, it's been a social whirl... I met an interesting older lady in the laundry (good place for conversations) who is camping in her car! She's touring and parking up anywhere. No curtains or insulation, so it must be freezing at night. I think she volunteers for organisations such as the RSPB.

Later, my neighbours invited me in for coffee. They have a caravan, and the husband has told the wife that she needs a special licence to tow the van. Of course she doesn't and was mad when she found that out. Now she is secretly going on a towing course! Sensible, given that one day, she might need to take over the driving/towing.

Two hours later, I came back to find I'd missed the Archers.. I'm hoping I can catch up online. Don't want to miss any denouement over Matt and Lillian. Apologies for that reference to my non-Archers Addict friends.

Wet and windy again after some lovely sunshine, and hail and thunder forecast for tomorrow. I've dropped my travel radio again, and can't get a decent signal now, so am unable to hear a forecast.

Posted with Blogsy

Rocking at Sango

Very blustery here. The van swaying from side to side! Have kept the lid down, so thank goodness that it is liveable in without raising it.

This is the view from my window. I haven't found a way down to the beach yet, but the weather has not been dry enough to risk it.

Excitement this morning, when a man was trying to get into the shower room I was using! I said "Go away", and he retorted that he was attempting to get into the men's loo. Afterwards I heard him say that a foreign woman had told him to go away, and that they (foreigners) were bloody animals and all over here! As Readers Digest used to say 'All human life is here'...

Then, to brighten my day, I met a charming young German guy who sorted out the washing machine I was using in the laundry. He has been travelling by motorbike around the UK for a month or so. He told me that he has five bikes at home, and has to keep one of them in his living room because there is no more room in the garage.

 

Flossy on her pitch.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Shivering at Sango Sands

Woke very early and was showered and ready to go by eight. The early start gave me the opportunity to take a detour on the journey to my next stop at Durness.

Travelling along the A836 to Altnaharra, I went onto the B873 to Bettyhill. This took me past the site of an old clearance village. And a memorial to Donald Macleod, who witnessed the destruction of the village.

I carried on through some amazing scenery through Tongue to Durness and Sango Sands Campsite. Sorry about the poor quality of the photo; it was pretty gloomy.

 

 

The road near Tongue.

The campsite overlooks the beach and there is a very chilly wind. In spite of that, there are a surprising number of tent campers who have come on bicycles, motorbikes and cars. Braver than me, that's for sure.

 

Posted with Blogsy